Before you start playing the game, you should watch other people play it first. This will help you begin to familiarize yourself with the game and its mechanics. This game is notoriously difficult and frustrating, but you surely can get the hang of it.
This game's control scheme might be confusing. Take a look at the settings menu and change the controls if you want to.
By default, the F key is your best friend in this game. Most actions, like eating food, are activated by using so, since LMB will usually just pick the item up. However, you need to press LMB to open doors and push buttons inside the car.
You may notice the player attributes panel in the top left corner of your screen. It shows whether you chose the permadeath option when starting the game, the day of the week, your money, and, most importantly, your needs.
Thirst, hunger, stress and urine turn red and stop increasing when they fill the bar — but they actually keep filling to 1.5× and then you die. Fatigue instead causes you to black out at 1.5×. Dirtiness has no real consequence.
You can only save at a toilet or outhouse. Saving progresses time to the next even hour (saving at 8:00 loads at 10:00) — this can be abused to pass time.
You spawn in your home. Outside is the bare body of your project car, the Satsuma AMP. Before you can build it you must get to Teimo's shop in the town of Peräjärvi — you live at the end of the Kesselinperä peninsula, so it's a long way.
Three vehicles are available from the start:
Now that you know the vehicles and their pros and cons, you need to make the first journey. There are many approaches, but only the best two are provided.
The land approach is the simpler of the two. Yes, the tractor is slow, but reliable, (somewhat) efficient and has a lot of space for items.
Head down the home road, turn left at the first two junctions, then go straight until you reach Fleetari's Repair Shop. (There's an alternative route along the railroad tracks — but it's a gamble, since the train may come at any moment and kill you or leave you stuck in the swamp. Not supported by this guide.)
At the shop you'll find a black muscle car parked in the driveway. Go inside and greet the shop owner; on the right is a shelf of parts. Buy these:
| Part | Qty. | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Alternator | 1 | 425 mk |
| Head gasket | 0–1 | 329 mk |
| Pistons | 0–4 | 0–1396 mk |
| Starter | 1 | 295 mk |
| Total | 720–2445 mk |
Put the parts in the trailer and continue driving. Turn left and cross the little bridge, go up the hill and turn right sharply to reach the abandoned farmhouse. Use the tractor forks to break the door, go up to the attic and turn right. There's a wasp nest — but if you hug the wall the wasps won't attack. On a mattress are four car wheels. Take them, drop them out the window, then jump out. Put the wheels in the trailer. Two tires start at 1% condition, so you'll want to replace them soon (bring wheels to the repair shop and use the service brochure).
Continue in the direction you came, taking no turns, until you reach the town and the gas station and store. Put the letter in the post box — these parts will be delivered to the store in a couple of days, costing 908 mk to buy. Then go inside and buy:
| Item | Qty. | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Alternator belt | 1 | 295 mk |
| Battery | 0–1 | 0–495 mk |
| Brake/clutch fluid | 3 | 105 mk |
| Cigarettes | 1 | 13.95 mk |
| Light bulb | 2 | 55.90 mk |
| Motor oil | 1 | 149 mk |
| Oil filter | 1 | 59 mk |
| Sausages | 12 | 131.40 mk |
| Spark plug box | 1 | 99 mk |
| Total | 908.25–1403.25 mk |
After paying, put the shopping bag, motor oil and (if bought) the battery into the trailer. Go to the black diesel pump and refuel the tractor (open the fuel cap by scrolling). Fill the black jerrycan with diesel and the green one with gasoline (open caps with F). Go inside and pay for the fuel.
Head home the same way without stopping at the farmhouse. Put the purchased parts, wheels, jerrycans, motor oil and (possibly) battery in the garage. Take the shopping bag into the storeroom (accessible from the kitchen), open it by holding F, and put the food in the fridge before it expires. Press F to take the cigarettes — smoke them by holding I. Take the alternator belt, oil filter, motor oil, light bulb boxes, spark plug box and brake fluid to the garage (you can lean through the wall with Q).
If it's late, go to sleep. The next day you'll be able to build the car.
If you don't feel like struggling with the tractor, take the water approach. The biggest downside is that the docks in Peräjärvi are quite far from the shop — so bring your moped.
Drive the moped into the boat — carefully, so it doesn't fall off. Start the boat by pulling the starter; make sure it's in neutral. The boat's gears aren't controlled by keyboard — press LMB/RMB on the gear lever (press the red button to stop).
Aim for the island in the middle of the lake (you can visit it later; not this trip). When you approach, you'll see the sandy shore at Peräjärvi — aim for its left end and you'll find the docks. Get out, drive the moped (holding the letter) to the tarmac road, turn left, then left again. The shop is the yellow building marked Teimon Kauppa. Put the letter in the post box (parts cost 908 mk in a couple of days), then buy the same store items as above.
After paying, take the shopping bag, motor oil, two-stroke fuel and (if bought) battery to the boat with the moped — repeat trips if needed. Fill the green jerrycan at the green gasoline pump (open the cap with F). Make sure you pay for fuel inside, otherwise Teimo will call and threaten to call the police.
At the boat, open its fuel cap by scrolling and refill with two-stroke fuel. Arrange items so they don't fall off. If an item starts sliding off, stop accelerating, switch to neutral, and exit driving mode fast to reposition. If an items falls in the lake it's gone — you may need to restart the journey.
Follow the coast left from the pier, past a wooden cabin and some roads to the lake, until you find a river. Turn into it and stop at a pier by a small bridge. With the moped, go right to the repair shop (identifiable by the muscle car in the driveway). Buy the same Fleetari parts as above, then bring them to the boat.
Pick up the beer case and, when you start the motor, carry it while driving away from the pier. Cross the bridge, go up the hill, turn sharply right to the abandoned farmhouse. Break the doors with the beer case, go to the attic and turn right, hug the wall past the wasp nest, grab the four wheels off the mattress, drop them out the window and jump out. Put them in the boat. Two tires start at 1%.
Turn the boat around and turn left out of the river. Vaguely follow the coast (don't enter the swamp gulf), aim for the peninsula and follow it to your home pier. When home, unload everything to the garage, put the shopping bag and food in the storeroom/fridge as described above, and go to sleep. Next day you can build.
Your project car — the Satsuma AMP — spawns outside your garage as a bare body, with the actual parts in the garage. You must put it together from scratch. The wrench sizes are a guessing game the first time; this guide tells you exactly what to do.
Take a car part with LMB and hover over where it goes. A check mark icon means you can install it with LMB. If a part is unbolted, hovering shows a disassemble icon — press RMB to remove it. To bolt parts, open the spanner (or ratchet) set with F, then press 1/2 to switch to and from tool mode. In tool mode, LMB selects a spanner; bolts of matching size turn green. Scroll up to tighten, down to loosen. Switch back out of tool mode when ready to mount another part.
Example row: 1x5* 2x6 • 3 × Example part • Place: Somewhere • Note: "shared with another example part, install it before tightening them".
This means 3 of the example parts must be installed somewhere, and each has 3 bolts — 2 of size 6 and 1 of size 5. The size 5 bolt is shared with another part, so install that part first before tightening it. The * marks shared bolts and notes what they're shared with.
First, read the note on your fridge — it gives some information about the game. Then arrange the garage parts however you like — there are no rules. You may push the car into the garage (much easier once the wheels are on).
| Bolts | Qty + Part | Place / Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Chassis | ||
| 4x10 | Sub frame | Bottom of the engine bay |
| 4x9 | Steering rack | On the rear part of the sub frame |
| 2x8 | Steering column | From the steering rack into the interior |
| 2x10 | 2 × Wishbones | Left and right front wheel bays |
| 1x12 | 2 × Spindles | On the wishbones |
| 1x12* | 2 × Steering rods | Beside the wishbones. Needs manual adjustment (see Tuning). * Shared with struts — install them first. |
| 1x14* | 2 × Disc brakes | On the spindles. * Shared with halfshafts. |
| 1x14* + 3x9** | 2 × Halfshafts | Inside from the disc brakes. * Shared with disc brakes. ** Shared with gearbox (doesn't matter if tightened now). |
| 1x12* + 3x10 + 4x9 | 2 × Struts | On top of the spindles. * Shared with steering rods. |
| 2x12 | 2 × Trail arms | Left and right rear wheel bays |
| None | 2 × Coil springs | On top of the trail arms |
| 1x12 + 2x6 | 2 × Shock absorbers | On top of the trail arms |
| 1x14 | 2 × Drum brakes | On the trail arms |
| 4x13 | 4 × Wheels | On the disc brakes / drum brakes |
| Bolts | Qty + Part | Place / Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Engine (Block) | ||
| None | Crankshaft | Underside of the block |
| 2x9 | 3 × Main bearings | On the crankshaft |
| 2x7 | 4 × Pistons | From crankshaft to top of the block |
| None | Head gasket | On top of the block |
| 10x7 | Cylinder head | On top of the head gasket |
| 5x8 | Headers | On the side of the cylinder head |
| 2x10 | Block → motor hoist | Place the block on the ground, headers facing away from the hoist. Lower the hoist to align with the two small notches; if correct, bolts appear — bolt the block. Raise the hoist and keep working. |
| 5x8 | Rocker shaft | On top of the cylinder head. Needs manual adjustment (see Tuning). |
| 6x7 | Rocker cover | On top of the rocker shaft. Needs to be filled (see Fluids). |
SPW* | 4 × Spark plugs | On the side of the cylinder head. Must be taken out of the spark plug box. * Spark plug wrench, from the spanner set. |
| 2x5 | Camshaft | Hole on the left side of the block |
| 1x10 | Camshaft gear | On the end of the camshaft. Needs manual adjustment (see Tuning). |
| None | Timing chain | On camshaft gear and crankshaft |
| 6x6 | Timing cover | On the timing chain |
| 5x7 | Water pump | On the timing cover |
| 4x7 | Water pump pulley | On the water pump |
| 1x11 | Crankshaft pulley | On the crankshaft |
SCR* + 1x7 + 1x10 | Alternator | Above the crankshaft pulley. Needs manual adjustment (see Tuning). * Screwdriver. |
| None | Alternator belt | On alternator and the pulleys |
SCR* | Distributor | Side of cylinder head, near spark plugs. Needs manual adjustment (see Tuning). * Screwdriver. |
| None | Engine plate | Opposite of alternator on the block |
| 2x7 + 1x5* | Starter | On the engine plate. * Only appears after wiring (see Wiring). |
| 6x7 | Flywheel | On the engine plate |
| None | Clutch pressure plate | On the clutch cover plate |
| None | Clutch disc | On the clutch cover plate |
| 6x6 | Clutch assembly | On the flywheel |
| 8x7 + 1x13 | Oilpan | On the bottom of the block |
| 6x7* + 1x10 | Gearbox | On the bottom of the block. * Top 4 shared with the inspection cover. |
| 4x7* | Inspection cover | On the gearbox. * Shared with gearbox. |
| 7x6 | Drive gear | On the gearbox |
| 4x8 | Carburator | Above the headers. Needs manual adjustment (see Tuning). |
| 2x6 | Airfilter | On the carburator |
HND* | Oil filter | Front of the block. * Scroll up by hand. |
| 2x7 | Fuel pump | Next to the oil filter |
| 3x11 | Block → sub frame | Carefully move the hoist to the car (don't shake it or the block falls). Lower to align with three size 11 bolts on the subframe, bolt them, then unbolt the two size 10 hoist bolts. Put the motor hoist back in place. |
| Bolts | Qty + Part | Place / Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Engine (Other) | ||
| 2x8 | Electrics | From the spark plugs to the engine bay |
| 1x8 | Fuel strainer | From the fuel pump to the engine bay |
| 4x7 | Radiator | Front of engine bay. Needs to be filled (see Fluids). |
SCR* × 3 | Radiator hoses | From the radiator to the block. * Screwdriver. Hoses 1 and 3 have two screws, hose 2 has one. |
| 1x9* + 2x8 | Clutch master cylinder | Rear of the engine bay. Needs to be filled (see Fluids). * On the clutch pedal in the interior. |
| 2x7 | Clutch lining | From master cylinder to the gearbox. One bolt at each end. Tightened with a spanner only. |
| 1x9* + 2x8 | Brake master cylinder | Rear of the engine bay. Needs to be filled (see Fluids). * On the brake pedal in the interior. |
| 11x7 | Brake lining | From master cylinder to the wheels. Seven bolts in the engine bay, four more at each wheel. Spanner only. |
| 7x11 + 1x12* | Fuel tank | Below the boot. * On the fuel line, tightened with a spanner. |
| None | Fuel tank pipe | From above into the fuel tank |
| 3x7 | Exhaust pipe | From the headers under the whole car. One bolt near the fuel tank, two at the headers. |
| 1x7 | Exhaust muffler | On the end of the exhaust pipe |
| 3x5 | Gear linkage | From the gearbox to the interior. All bolts are at the gearbox. |
| 2x8 | Battery | Designated corner of the engine bay. Bolts appear after wiring. DO NOT leave the negative (black) bolt tightened by itself — fire/electrocution risk. Tighten positive (red) first, then black. |
| Bolts | Qty + Part | Place / Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Interior | ||
| 1x10 | Steering wheel | On the steering column |
| 3x6 | Gear stick | On a bump in the middle of the interior |
| 4x8 + 1x5* | Handbrake | On the same bump as the gear stick. * Bolt this last or it detaches by itself. This bolt is under the car. |
| 4x9 | 2 × Front seats | Front of the interior |
| 2x9 | Rear seat | Back of the interior |
| None | Back panel | Space between window and rear seats |
| 2x10 | Dashboard | Under the front window |
| 2x7 | Clock gauge | Empty circle shape in the meters |
| 2x6 | Dashboard meters | Empty space in the dashboard. Bolts located in the glove box. |
| None | Radio | Empty rectangle shape in the meters |
| Bolts | Qty + Part | Place / Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Exterior | ||
| 4x6 | Hood | Over the engine bay. Opened with the hood lock on the left end of the dashboard. |
| 5x5 | 2 × Fenders | Over the sides below the hood |
| 4x10 | 2 × Doors | Over the entrances to the interior |
| 4x6 | Bootlid | Over the boot |
| 2x8 | 2 × Bumpers | Bottom of the front and rear of the car |
| 2x6 | Grille | Front of the car |
| 2x7 | 2 × Headlights | Two spaces in the grille. Recommended to install only after wiring. |
| None | 2 × Light bulbs | In the headlights. Must be taken out of the car light bulb box. |
| None | 2 × Rear lights | Two spaces in the rear |
| None | 4 × Hubcaps | On the wheels |
After building, you still need to add the fluids. Unscrew the caps of the reservoirs, fill, and screw them back on.
Fill motor oil in through the rocker cover, using the oil you bought. Oil condition affects performance and bad oil causes overheating; quality and amount drop over time, so replace it regularly. Press F on the dipstick to check color — the darker, the worse. If it darkens consistently, replace the oil filter and oil. To change it, unbolt the size 13 bolt on the oilpan to drain, re-bolt, refill, and replace the oil filter.
Coolant is needed for the radiator to cool the engine. It can be bought at Teimo's, but there's a trick to save money: go to the kitchen, lean into the sink and drink A LOT of water — until your urine bar goes red and beyond (but STOP before your bladder bursts at double the red level, or you die). Then go to the radiator, aim for the hole, and press P. Keep trying until the tank is full. There are no differences between using piss and coolant.
Fill both the brake and clutch master cylinders. You'll need about two and a half bottles, possibly more if you forgot to tighten brake lining nuts and fluid pours out.
The main fluid. Take the green gasoline jerrycan you filled, open it, and pour fuel into the fuel tank pipe. Pour all of it in.
Some parts need manual adjustment after assembly. (The wiki has visual tuning infographics you can click to enlarge.)
To stop the car swerving to the side, adjust the steering rods. After assembling the chassis and bolting the wheels, use a size 14 spanner (a ratchet won't work) on a nut on the steering rods. Scroll down until the wheel stops moving, then scroll up 60 times — this centers the wheel. Do both wheels and the car drives perfectly straight.
You can adjust the rocker shaft after starting the car (see visual guide), or without it running: take the screwdriver, scroll down on each screw until fully loosened (these screws don't turn green when hovered), then scroll up 7 times. Repeat for all valves. This sets the valves as loose as possible without ticking. If you hear ticking after starting, readjust. Note: an improperly adjusted distributor makes a similar but higher-pitched sound.
After tightening the gear, continuing to scroll up rotates it. There's a notch on the gear that must align with a notch on the crankshaft and engine block. An improperly adjusted camshaft gear may cause serious engine damage — tune carefully.
Adjust when putting on the alternator belt. Untighten the screwdriver screw, scroll up on the alternator by hand, then put on the belt. Afterward, scroll down until it stops moving, then scroll up 2 clicks — visually the belt should sit just barely on the alternator's groove. This stops the belt squealing and minimizes wear.
Adjust so the engine gets enough spark. Before starting (as with the rockers): unscrew it two ticks, scroll down until it stops, then scroll up 27 times. After starting: pull the choke and scroll down (advancing ignition) until it ticks, then scroll up (retarding) one at a time until it stops, maximizing power.
With the fuel mixture gauge: after building and starting, let the engine heat to about half on the temp gauge, take the screwdriver to a screw on the carburator. Scrolling up adds air (number rises), scrolling down reduces air (number falls). Tune for about 14.9.
Without the gauge, two consistent methods: start the car, warm to half on the temp gauge, and watch the exhaust. If gray/black, scroll up until clear; if very white, scroll down until clear — this takes the ratio from 14.1 to ~14.5, passing inspection. If already passed and you want more torque/power, scroll down 17 times instead for 13.1 (ideally tune to 13.5/.6, as engine heat shifts you out of the 13.1 range).
After building and tuning, wire up the electronics. Take the wiring mess and press F on the connectors.
| Connector 1 | Connector 2 |
|---|---|
| Rear harness connector | Fuel tank |
| Rear harness connector | Rear light left |
| Rear harness connector | Rear light right |
| Front lights connector | Headlight left (detach first with a size 7 spanner/ratchet) |
| Front lights connector | Headlight right (detach first with a size 7 spanner/ratchet) |
| Main harness connector | Main harness connector |
| Regulator | Main harness connector |
| Main harness connector | Positive terminal (Battery) |
| Main harness connector | Ignition coil (Electrics) |
| Main harness connector | Radiator fan connector (Radiator) |
| Fusebox | Instrument panel 1 (temp/fuel gauge) |
| Fusebox | Ignition switch (Steering column) |
| Fusebox | Instrument panel 2 (hazard/cigarette lighter switches) |
| Radio harness | Radio / CD player |
| Dash harness connector | Light switch (wiper/headlight switches) |
| Dash harness connector | AFR gauge (wire when you get and attach the gauge) |
Under the car / engine bay:
| Connector 1 | Connector 2 / Note |
|---|---|
| Positive terminal (Battery) | Starter (bolted with size 8 spanner/ratchet) |
| Starter | Negative terminal (Battery) (size 5 spanner) |
| Battery ground connector | Starter (untighten front bolt first with size 7) |
| Regulator | Alternator |
If the car is built, starts, and drives without problems, move on. Otherwise refer to this guide:
Caused by missing wiring, a missing/loose starter, or an improperly attached (or dead) battery. If you didn't buy a new battery, put the old one on the garage charger. If the needle sits all the way right, the battery is dead — save up and buy a new one.
Caused by a fuel leak/missing fuel, untightened spark plugs, or a broken rocker shaft.
Caused by untightened spark plugs or a lack of tuning.
Many sounds point to broken or improperly adjusted parts:
All fixable — see Tuning.
The Satsuma backfires when the air/fuel ratio is too lean (greater than 16), or the camshaft backfires (which also shoots fire from the carburator). This happens if you don't tune the carburator and leave the mixture lean, or the camshaft is out of adjustment.
The oil pressure light. It turns on when oil pressure is low — normal when the car is off. If the car is on, you have an oil leak; fix it before driving or risk catastrophic engine failure.
The alternator light. On when the alternator isn't producing more power than the engine uses — normal when off. If it stays on while running (even when revving), the alternator may be broken, not installed/wired correctly, or the belt not installed. An intermittent light points to a worn alternator that will need replacing.
Your head gasket is broken (or close to it), or the headers and exhaust pipe are missing.
Your car is overheating. Slow down or stop and let it cool.
Either bent suspension, or the wheels need aligning.
You most likely forgot to disengage the handbrake.
Most likely you forgot to tune the distributor, rocker shaft, or carburator. Another cause: spark plugs that are untightened or broken.
One of the most important early-game characters is your uncle Toivo. After 30–90 real-world minutes pass following the installation of the engine, driver's seat, or rear left trail arm, uncle Toivo spawns.
When he spawns, a blue van (Hayosiko Pace) appears outside his house. Knock on his door and he'll give you the keys. You can drive it until you sleep, at which point he takes it away. If you finished the car, slept, and he still hasn't appeared, do some jobs while you wait.
Once you have the keys, make another trip. Teimo should have called to say your order arrived — if not, do jobs and wait. Start the van (turn the ignition key and hold until it starts), disengage the parking brake by hovering and holding RMB, and fasten your seatbelt.
Bring the diesel jerrycan (for emergencies) and food and drinks. The van uses ~30 L/100 km, so about 120 km on a full tank; the drive to the shops on the highway uses about 20–25% of the tank.
Head down the home road like the land approach, turning right at the first junction. Stay on the dirt road until asphalt, then turn right until the highway, and right again. Drive up to 80 km/h — the van and truck speed limit (100 for the Satsuma). Driving faster at a police checkpoint gets you fined. Take the first exit to reach the town and shop. (The alternate route, in blue on the wiki map, is a little slower but safer since it's mostly highway.)
At the shop, pay for your order, fill the van with diesel (and pay), and buy whatever else you want. Head home, then take everything out of the van — it despawns the next morning.
The uncle storyline is a waiting game. When you get the keys and drive the van for a day, the uncle despawns and returns after a week. You drive again for a day before he leaves, and the week after he spawns again and gives you the truck keys.
During the wait, earn money with the jobs below.
Two weeks after your first encounter, the uncle spawns outside (no van) and tells you he lost his license for speeding. He gives you the keys to the Gifu — an old septic tanker truck. The van can now be found outside the Lindell inspection shop for free use.
Once the car runs, drives, and matches the tuning steps, take it to the Lindell inspection shop. Its crucial to bring the warning triangle (found on the back of the tractor) and place it anywhere in the car. Bring tools in case something needs adjusting. Avoid highways in an unregistered vehicle — police fine you at checkpoints.
When the shop doors open, drive the Satsuma onto the lift. Exit, talk to Lindell at the front desk, and pay 325 mk. He inspects the car and provides a receipt. If it passes, the register plates appear; if not, they don't. Note what's marked on the sheet (you can switch the language to English by clicking the union jack, and back to Finnish by pressing the flag). Once fixed, get re-inspected for another 325 mk.
After the first pass, Lindell posts a flyer 21 days later alerting you the vehicle needs another inspection. Check the list of permitted and forbidden parts to ensure it passes.
To get inspected you need tires replaced, which needs money, which comes from jobs in Peräjärvi. Here are some of the jobs you can do:
| Job | Requirements | Cost | Location | Availability | Repeatable? | Pay |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bringing food to grandma | Fish trap, pike | Free | Loppentie, south | Daily, 8:00–16:00 | Yes | Up to 1000 MK |
| Sugar / sausages / milk | — | Up to 238 MK/trip | — | — | Yes | Up to ~650 MK/trip |
| Brewing and delivering kilju | Bucket, sugar, yeast, juice | Initially 310 MK, later 51 MK/batch | Loppentie, east | Daily, 6:00–22:00 | Yes | 170 MK/bottle |
| Chopping and delivering firewood | Tractor, trailer, axe, firewood pile, firewood | Free | Loppentie, east | Daily, 6:00–22:00 | Yes | 3200 MK |
| Delivering advertisements | Motor vehicle | Free | Peräjärvi town | Fridays, 10:00–20:00 | Yes | Up to 700 MK |
| Delivering haybales | Tractor, trailer, beer case (recommended) | Free | Peräjärventie | Daily, all day | No | 3500 MK |
| Delivering the harvester | All haybales delivered, harvester | Free | Peräjärventie | Daily, all day | No | 1500 MK |
| Driving a drunk home | Motor vehicle (except truck, tractor, moped) | Free | Peräjärvi town | Some nights, 2:00 | 5–6 times | 50–1300 MK |
| Helping a drunk move | A drunk driven home at least 5 times, van | Free | Peräjärvi town | Daily, 6:00–22:00 | No | 4000–6000 MK |
| Picking strawberries | None | Free | Rykipohja | Daily, 6:00–20:00 | Yes | 40 MK/box |
| Pumping septic tanks | Gifu | Free (fuel costs) | Various locations | Daily, all day | Yes | 1200 MK/tank |
| Towing wrecked cars | Gifu or tractor | Free (fuel costs) | Various locations | Daily, all day | 4 cars | 1200–4500 MK |